Michelin awarded it two stars. Critics called it life-changing. But the accolades weren’t enough to see seafood restaurant Aphotic into its third ye

‘Don’t invest in SF, because you won’t make it’: Facing closure, chef unloads on city

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2024-10-09 16:00:04

Michelin awarded it two stars. Critics called it life-changing. But the accolades weren’t enough to see seafood restaurant Aphotic into its third year.

When it comes to choosing where to operate a business, location is often the most important criterion. But if you ask chef Peter Hemsley of upscale seafood restaurant Aphotic, it is beyond that in San Francisco. Just 19 months ago, the chef opened Aphotic in a cavernous, inky black space near the intersection of Folsom and Third streets in SoMa. By the end of the year, it will be closed.

Hemsley is adamant that it wasn’t the food or even the $215 price tag on the 11-course tasting menu that caused the restaurant to fold. He blames the city.

“If I could have found a better location, I would have,” Hemsley told The Standard. “But it’s expensive and hard, and, for those who can’t, the lesson is: Don’t invest in San Francisco, because you won’t make it.”

Aphotic, which opened in March 2023, is one of the most ambitious fine-dining restaurants to debut in post-pandemic San Francisco. But on Friday morning via an Instagram post, Hemsley announced that the final day of service at 816 Folsom Street will be Dec. 21. The news shocked fans, who flooded the post with mournful comments and called it a loss for the city.