I T LOOKED LIKE a typical fish-and-chip shop. Aproned chefs tended to frying baskets and wrapped orders in newspaper. But the catch of the day came with a catch of its own: at Selfridges, a department store in London, patrons were buying toys rather than trawl. Cuddly cod were garnished with fuzzy lemons and served with plushy peas. The cheapest item cost $25, twice the cost of an actual meal. Jellycat, the British brand behind the pop-up shop, invited everyone to play with their food.