I n this third and final interview installment, cultural historian and sensory artist Gayil Nalls continues her conversation with world-renowned brewmaster Garrett Oliver. The interview took place on August 6, 2024, at Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn, New York.
Garret Oliver: That’s an interesting thought. When I was writing Brewmaster’s Table, I discussed how aromas can be perceived as “bright” or “dark.” These associations often come from our physical world. For example, something brown, like mahogany, suggests it’s been subjected to heat, giving it earthy or caramelized flavors. Mushrooms are often thought of as earthy and dark, while caramel shares those characteristics. On the other hand, citrus flavors are generally considered “bright,” uplifting, and fresh.
These perceptions are shaped by personal experiences and cultural backgrounds. Some ingredients can embody both characteristics simultaneously. For example, makrut lime leaves (also known as kaffir lime leaves), which are significant in Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, possess both earthy and bright notes. Recently, I’ve become familiar with flavors like palm sugar, which has a unique earthy quality. My first taste of palm sugar was at Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok in Portland, and it opened up a more earthy side of Thai cuisine for me.